Savannah- Seeing For My Own Eyes

In a packed out Mitsubishi 4x4 full of muzungus cruising with the windows down on a road outside of Kigali I realized this is it for me. I love this. Being in a new place, meeting new people, trying new things, making new mistakes, finding new solutions- all of it. This feeling of growth and learning is familiar to me. I think it's what I thrive on.

The views down in the valleys outside of Kigali were amazing as we made the 30 min. drive to a small town named Nyarama. The hillsides are full of banana groves and at the top of each hill you have sweeping views of the patchwork farms below. The nicely paved street was lined with people walking and riding bikes to and from who knows where. Most often they are either carrying any number of things on their head or pushing a bike or wheel barrel loaded down with goods.

We were on our way to visit a church where 5,000 people were massacred over the course of five days during the genocide. Inside the church, the clothes of the victims have been piled on pews. Below ground there are three crypts where the bones of 50,000 victims who were killed in the area just around the church are kept on large shelves 6 feet deep and continuing well over my head. I was surprised that my emotion when descending the steep, concrete steps into the crypt was fear. I don't think I have ever been in such close contact with so much death. I was somewhat forcing myself to slowly take the next step forward where I knew I would see more remains. It would be physically possible to reach out and pick up a skull. No glass separates them from you. In fact, they are so close to you on either side that you have to be careful not to accidentally touch them. Real human remains. Once real people. This was the first time there was no glass between me and that reality. No book, no Hollywood lens, just the remains of real people like me who might have loved to travel, and eat lots of vegetables, and cook with their family. It sounds a bit cliche as I write this now, but there was nothing cliche about the reality of what I saw today.

What's so amazing about this country is how it has taken that sadness and loss and turned it into such positive energy and potential. I am so excited about the things happening at Kagugu. I had a wonderful meeting with the Headmistress and Prefect of Studies on Monday. They are so excited and eager to develop new plans to help their students. We all agreed that if we have a true collaboration and exchange of ideas, together we find ways to help Kagugu excel.

The Rwandese teachers at Kagugu have proven to be our greatest resource. Their enthusiasm to learn has been overwhelming and inspiring. I was shocked to learn on Monday that the monthly salary for the teachers at Kagugu is 23,000 RWF. That's approximately $46 per month, $552 per year and about $1.50 per day. It's reasonable to suspect that prices are lower here and therefore that is a livable wage, but actually a sack of rice (50 kilos) is about 30,000 RWF. They aren't even paid a sack of rice a month, and still they are showing up during their summer vacation in order to learn English and new teaching methods. Wow!

I've learned so much since I arrived not quite one week ago, but there are still many questions to be asked and ideas to be explored. I'm looking forward to several upcoming meetings that will hopefully give me a more clear understanding of how the IEE can fit into the government's plan for Rwanda. The people of Rwanda are determined to pull themselves up and never again be victims of genocide. It's exciting to be here and be a part of their wonderful optimism and energy!